Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass

Welcome to Kathmandu! As you land at Kathmandu airport (Tribhuvan International Airport), reclaim your luggage and finish your custom formalities (visa, etc.) and get to the airport waiting for the terminal, you will find our staff waiting to greet you. He/she will be holding the Icicles Adventure Treks & Tours placard with your name. You will be then transferred to your respective hotel in our private vehicle. You can rest at your hotel to recover from jet lag or if you have plenty of time you can visit the Thamel market for any gear that you need for your Mera Peak Climbing Trip. Accommodation: Hotel in Kathmandu.

After breakfast, we start a guided tour to several medieval and spiritual sites in Kathmandu which are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ (Swayambhunath), and Buddhists shrine (BouddhaNath) which is one of the large Stupas in the world. Later after the sightseeing program, we will introduce you to your trekking guide and have a small pre-trip meeting. You can also take an opportunity to hire/buy any last-minute trekking equipment or bargain for your souvenirs at the stores. You are advised to pack your things and be set up for your actual Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing adventure that will begin the next day. Accommodation: Hotel
Included Meal: B

We need to wake up at dawn to be ready for the early morning flight. We drive to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport. Upon boarding the flight, we fly above the array of beautiful green and white mountains. We arrive at Tenzing Hillary Airport at Lukla after an adventurous 35 minutes flight. Lukla is an entry town of the Everest region from where our trek begins. This is one of the most beautiful and adventurous air routes in the world concluding in a dramatic landing site on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. In Lukla, we meet our additional crew members and do some packing and arrangements. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills we reach the village of Paiya where we nestle for the night in a local teahouse. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

After breakfast, we march a little down until we reach the wooden bridge and then carefully we go ahead through the slippery trail to cross Kari La pass.  We relish enjoying the panorama of  Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Thamserku, Mera Peak, and many other peaks of the Mahalangur Himalayan range from the top of Kari La.

 We will have your lunch in the village ahead and will start up walking through the rhododendron and bamboo forests in the narrow mountain trail. Make your camera ready with full charge to catch the outstanding views of Dudkoshi River valley and Shorong Himal before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangom (Pangkongama) for a night’s rest. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

The trail descends the rock-strewn path leading to the rhododendron forest. You will come across a lot of Mani walls through the trail. Passing again through hills, ridges, and teahouses you start downwards and have lunch around there in a village nearby. You will find mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak and Naulekh Peak awaiting your insight. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply.

You experience the most interesting and charming feelings as you walk past forests of pine and rhododendron to reach Narjing Dingma where we stay today. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

After breakfast, you start up and being though a hill and through narrow and complicated way ahead through rhododendron and bamboo forests you pass in the course of landslides. From the Surkie La (3,085m) we head north along the ridge, and the whole of eastern Nepal opens out in front of us, over the wildly remote Hongu valley, with the solitary bulk of the Kangchenjunga massive marking the Sikkim border.

By the side of the crystal clear stream, you will have your lunch today.  Straight ahead and up through the rhododendron and bamboo forests you may encounter wild animals if you are lucky enough. Overnight in a teahouse in Chalem Kharka. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

We climb up the pass above Chalem Kharka from where we see snow-capped peaks. Here as we are walking through higher elevation, we only see scrubby, rocky, and grassy surroundings. We reach hovering outcrop of the lakes of Panch Pokhari - five lakes, the sacred number.

This is a place of pilgrimage for both Buddhists and Hindus, a very potent, evocative site. A short descent beyond brings us into the wide cwm of Khola Kharka (4,120m).  Further, a steep climb leads out of the valley before the trail contours along and around towards the main Hinku Valley.

This is followed by a series of steep descents first westwards down scree then northwest through scrub rhododendron and on into fir. A scrambling descent of around brings us down near the valley floor where we cross the Mojang Khola and on through a boulder-strewn forest we finally reach Tashing Ongma. We can see three summits of Mera Peak from the village of Tashing Ongma. There is also a National park permit check post at this village. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

Starting after breakfast we will reach a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley where you line around in the splendor of nature surrounding us from the Hinku Valley.

Straight through the bamboo forest in the narrow trails enjoying the view of Mera, Kusum Kangguru and Kyashar Himal (6770m) and the Hinku Valley. At this place, we have the possibility of encountering mountain wild animals like sloth bears, jungle cats, etc. among the tall pine trees. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

The walk today continues along the Inku Khola filled with spectacular views of Mera Peak, Charpati Himal, Kusum Kanguru, and Thamserku. Leaving Kothe we move ahead to the Upper Hinku valley.

The vegetation starts to become sparse and shrubby. Filled with nomadic meadows (kharkas), today's tail has no major village along. We cross the Sanu Khola and Inkhu Khola over the bridges and reach Gondishung, where there is a teahouse and we have lunch here. We also visit the ancient 200-year old Lungsumgba Gompa, a Buddhist shrine that shelters by a huge rock. Climbers burn incense and pray for good weather and a successful ascent to Mera Peak at the gompa.

 An hour’s walk from Gondishung takes us to Thangnak, a place that used to be a summer camp for yak herders but now has been developed as the hamlet of teashops and lodges for climbers on the trail. Charpate Himal looks very near from here and we see the whole mountain, from the base to the summit.

The trail continues up the left bank to Thangnak (4366m), a summer settlement that has grown into a small hamlet of teashops and a lodge due to love for Mera peak climbing. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

Today, we walk towards Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier. We enjoy the stunning views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Hinku Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to Khare.

A beautiful stay at Khare is something that we would cherish throughout our life. It is pleasure to watch the spectacular view of the North face of Mera Peak from Khare. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

Today after breakfast, we will prepare our gear for ice climbing just above the Khare or towards Mera peak base camp. We walk a couple of hours from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain.

We will practice the usage of climbing gears and techniques of ice climbing for a few hours following the instruction of our climbing guide. Our climbing guide will also share some practical tips on how you can keep yourself safe in the mountains.

This training is significant and helpful, particularly if you are a novice climber. After a few hours of practicing at the glacier, we stroll back to camp and after the final preparation of our equipment and packing of our mountain bags, you will have overnight rest in our teahouse in Khare.

We do not spend nights at Mera Peak base camp because it is felt unnecessary lately due to many climbers. So, we spend time at higher altitudes for a long time today and sleep back at Khare. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D

We keep in mind to keep very slow speed to allow better acclimatization. First, we climb to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then up a steep slope of snow to reach a boulder-strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier.

The trek becomes strenuous and challenging because of the altitude and cold. When we are walking above 5000 meters, every step comes with a struggle.

Although no technical climb today, making your way to Mera High Camp can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn.

We set up a high camp and from here the views are outstanding. From Mera High Camp, see stirring views of the five highest peaks in the world piercing the skyline- Mount Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Cho Oyu (8188m), Makalu (8485m), and Kanchenjunga (8586m). We also get good views of Mt. Baruntse (7129m), Mt. Gaurishanker (7134m), and Chamlang (7319m. This night we spend in tented camp at Mera High Camp. Accommodation: Tented camp. Included Meals: B, L, D

Our Sherpa will wake you up at about 2 am with hot tea and we all will have a high-energy meal before starting the summit ascent of Mera Peak. Starting through the main glacier, crossing to the south side we approach the snow hump-back ridge. This part of the route is not technical but 30-degree slopes are still tough. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and then you swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and you are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final steep ascent, you will attach to a fixed rope laid by your guide and use your ice axe and a jumar to climb the final 30-meter 55-degree pitch to reach Mera Peak’s summit. A spectacular panorama greets you with clear views over to Everest. Once you’ve had a chance to take this all in and congratulate yourself on an amazing achievement, then we will descend into the Hongu Valley, down to Kongma Dingma. Accommodation: Tented camp. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We continue our trek passing Hongu Valley, a very high and remote valley. Amazing wilderness and We head passing a less crowded way on the lap of the Himalayas. On the way we will see the picturesque views of Himalayas especially Baruntse. As we head towards Seto Pokhari, we shall have astonishing views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Finally, we shall reach Seto Pokhari, a frozen pond (white/icelake).  Accommodation: Tented camp. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We trek north up the Hongu Valley and turn northwest off the main glaciated valley. We walk through Panch Pokhari. We have lunchtime with a majestic view of Mt. Baruntse. Then we continue and reach the south Amphu Lapsta Base Camp. Accommodation: Tented camp. Included Meals: B, L, D.

A long and tough day. We cross the pass entailed crunching over moraine, then rope and crampons to jumar up the glacier snow slopes to the pass.

On the Imja Khola side, a steep, steep descent clipped onto a roped route, with a short abseiling section over large rock outcrop.

Once down in the bowl of the Ambulapcha glacial valley, it is an easy but long trek over sand then turf towards Imja Tsho’s southern moraine wall before heading west. We cross Imja Khola and the glacier’s moraine debris and may need to stroll gently over up the other side of the Imja Tsho to get to Island Peak Base Camp. Accommodation: Tented camp. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We wake up very early in the morning (at around 2 am) to take advantage of the calm mountain weather in the mornings of the Himalayan region. We climb through the steep rock gully. We get to the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which follows to steeper 100m headwall section, just below the summit ridge, about 60 degrees steep. Our climbing guide will fix rope in this section as the glacier has several crevasses. From the top of Island peak, you can see a breathtaking panorama of gigantic mountains – Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) which form a semi-circle in the north and the stunning views of Makalu (8475m), Baruntse (7129m) in the east and famous expedition peak of Amadablam (6812m) in the. After enjoying the summit views, and taking pictures, we descend back to Chhukung. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We follow the main route from Chukkung to Dingboche, Tengboche and to Namche. Therefore we can feel the drop in altitude and breathing becomes much easier than at Chukkung. We won’t miss our opportunity to immerse ourselves in natural beauty from a different perspective. After reaching at Namche, we take shower and relax. Walking hours will be approximately from 7 to 8 hours and meals includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. Accommodation: Teahouse/camping. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We follow the main route from Chukkung to Dingboche, Tengboche and to Namche. Therefore we can feel the drop in altitude and breathing becomes much easier than at Chukkung. We won’t miss our opportunity to immerse in natural beauty from different perspective. After reaching at Namche, we take shower and relax. Walking hours will be approximately from 7 to 8 hours and meals includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D.

From Namche, we trek along the classical Everest base camp trail back. We cross the Dudh Koshi river multiple times over a suspension bridge, we get to the ground level of the Himalayas at Jorsale. Surrounding around us becomes greener and denser as we are now descending to lower elevations. The breathing process becomes easier and easier. Leaving behind another checkpoint while exiting from Sagarmatha National Park gate, we also cross Phakding and after a couple of hours of walks with a few quick stops along the route, we finally arrive at Lukla. We give a stretch to our sore legs and celebrate the successful completion of the Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo Ri adventure in the Everest region of Nepal. It shall be walking hours from 6 to 7 with accommodation at the local lodge that includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner in meals.

Accommodation: Teahouse. Included Meals: B, L, D.

We take a morning domestic flight from Lukla to Kathmandu that concludes our main objective of trekking. Usually, these domestic flights are scheduled for the morning due to clear weather conditions at the early time of the day. After 27 minutes of flight to Kathmandu, we assist you in checking in your hotel, and then after enjoy you are invited to our farewell dinner at one of the cultural restaurants nearby Thamel. Stay overnight at your hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast and farewell dinner included as meals of the day. Accommodation: Hotel. Included Meals: B

Finally our 22 days long Mera and Island peak climbing trip ends today. We will transfer you to airport for your flight back home With a warm greeting from Icicles, we hope to see you again soon shortly, and you give us another chance to organize adventurous trips in the days to come. Farewell! Included Meals: B